If there is no basement, the excavation will be rather simple and not too difficult. If you are in an area where there is no really cold, freezing weather, the foundation may not need to go down more than a foot into the original undisturbed earth, of a width sufficient to carry safely the weight of the building without settlement. The width of the footing under the wall must never be less than 12". Local build­ing regulations, available upon request at the place where building permits are issued, will usually give information as to the required width and depth of foundations.

In locations where the ground freezes the foun­dation must extend below the depth to which frost penetrates; otherwise, the frost will lift the founda­tion unevenly, destroying the usefulness of the build­ing.

In some localities special foundation problems are encountered, in which case the builder must get a person experienced in foundation work in that re­gion to design and help with the foundation. Don't take chances with a foundation; if you do not have an adequate foundation, you will never have much of a house, no matter how carefully you do the rest of the work. Much information can be gained by seeing what others are doing in your neighborhood and talking the problems over with them.

If you must build on earth that has been filled-in within the last twenty years, be sure your foundation goes clear through the fill to the original undisturbed earth.

Excavation for footings can usually be done quickly by hand, but if there is a great deal of dig­ging to do, many people would rather see it done with a bulldozer or some other mechanical equip­ment.

If you are building on a piece of land that is not level, the bottom of the foundation must be kept level. Otherwise, it might slide down the hill when heavy rains come and the ground gets slick. The excavation can be made with steps, so the uphill end will not be too deep.

To indicate the top of the concrete when pour­ing in a trench as for a footing, drive small stakes at intervals of three or four feet in the bottom of the trench and let the top of the stake indicate the top of the concrete. Then fill the trench until the con­crete reaches the top of the stakes, after which you smooth it off. Although the stakes should do no harm if left in place, if you wish, you can easily pull them out if you do it while the concrete is still soft. These stakes need not be larger than 3/4" in size to serve their purpose.

To smooth the top of the concrete a float can easily be made which is cheaper than a trowel and often more effective and easier to use. Take a length of board about 1/2" thick and 4" or 5" wide and 18" long; make a handle of a small board 11/2" wide and 8" long and support it above the back of the board by using two short blocks. Nail together as shown in the illustration on page 111. A more elaborate handle can be cut from a piece of pine 2" x 4" as shown, if desired.