The next step after the lot is paid for is to com�0…2plete your plans. You may have been dreaming for years, but now is the time to crystallize the plans and getthem into final form. This is admittedly difficult, as many of the ideas we have are mutually incom�0…2patible and contradictory. We have to begin to make choices, to make definite decisions. Do we want a separate dining room, or is a breakfast nook ade�0…2quate? Do we need a family room; if so, can we afford that much house? What kind of roof will be used? What kind of exterior walls will we finally build? All these questions and hundreds more will have to be given definite and specific answers before the plans can be completed.

In order to draw the plans accurately and quickly, you will need a few small pieces of equipment:

A drawing board at least 18" x 24", preferably 24" x 30".

T-square as long as the board.

45¡ã plastic triangle; a 30¡ã-60¡ã is also useful at times.

A 12" rule, or an architect's scale. Two drawing pencils, H and 3H. Soft eraser. Drawing paper, 18" x 24" or larger.

Tracing paper, comes in sheets, or in rolls of 10 yards or more.

Masking tape to hold paper in place on board.

The drawing board can easily be made of a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood. Hardwood, such as birch or maple, is much better than fir or pine, but these can be used if covered with two or three layers of firm hard paper. The left end of the board must be straight and smooth, as the T-square slides along that end, unless you are left-handed, in which case the right end of the board must be straight.

It is better to get a T-square with transparent edges, as it is easier to see where to begin and end a line if you can see through the T-square.

As you will use only a few simple scales, an or�0…2dinary rule will be satisfactory, but you can buy a regular architect's scale if you wish. You can also get good results even with a yardstick. The scale used in America is 1/4" = 1' 0". In some countries the metric system is used, but American carpenters would find it more than confusing. For the details of the cupboards you will use either 1/2" ¡ª 1', or 1" = 1¡¯. For the plot plan let 1" = 16', but if this does not fit the paper, select any appropriate scale.

Many people prefer an H pencil for the letter�0…2ing and a 3H for the lines. An ordinary pencil is not good because of a tendency to smear, and as the blue�0…2prints are made directly from the pencil tracings, a more opaque lead is needed. There are several makes of good drawing pencils¡ªTurquoise, Lumograph, Castell, Koh-i-noor, to name a few.

It is possible to get mechanical lead holders that take drawing pencil leads and hold them securely. Ordinary mechanical pencils do not hold the lead securely enough and they take smaller leads. Draw�0…2ing leads, about five inches long, are larger in dia�0…2meter than ordinary leads. With a mechanical pencil you will need a special sharpener made exclusively for this type of pencil. If you can afford the three-dollar investment in a pencil and sharpener, you will find it much easier to make a first-class drawing. The point of the pencil can be kept perfectly conical, so that when rotated slightly as you draw a line the point will stay sharp and will continue to give you a fine but dense straight line, perfect for blueprinting.

If you do not wish to make the investment nec�0…2essary for a mechanical pencil, get a good drawing pencil, sharpen it with a knife, and keep the lead pointed by rubbing it on a piece of fine sandpaper. Even if this will not give nearly as good a point as the previously suggested equipment, it is often used.

Sometimes the pencil is sharpened to a chisel point. Although this gives a point that will last long�0…2er, a little practice will be necessary to get a really satisfactory drawing, as it is difficult to get the cor�0…2ners to intersect properly. Incidentally, it is better to let the lines overlap a bit at the corners rather than to have them fail to meet.

Ink tracings are seldom used nowadays, as the pencil work which gives satisfactory results and is quicker to do, can be changed more easily in case you find that necessary. If you decide to make your tracings in ink, be sure to use black ink, as blue or green ink are not opaque enough to make good prints.

The paper can be attached to the drawing board with inch-long pieces of masking tape at the cor�0…2ners. This is much better than thumb tacks, as they are often in the way and they damage the board.

A layer of firm hard paper on the board under the drawing will make a better working surface than the bare board. It is possible to buy a regular board-covering material, which is a tough paper with a hard smooth surface, but wrapping paper will do if necessary. This is also attached to the board with masking tape. Avoid putting the tape on so that it covers the left end of the board and gets in the way of the T-square. The left end of the drawing board must be kept clean and free from all irregularities, as these would throw the T-square out of line and result in a poor drawing. A piece of smooth inlaid linoleum makes an excellent board cover and draw�0…2ing surface.

Drawing to scale is not difficult to understand. If 1/4" = 1' 0", take a rule and measure off one inch; this will represent four feet of house, ten inches will represent forty feet of house. A little figuring will show that 1/16" on the drawing equals 3" of house. A wall is drawn 1/8" thick, to represent 6". A wall is only 53/8" thick, but it is so near 6" that most draftsmen call it 6" and no harm results. It is a pleasant surprise to find a room a fraction of an inch larger than shown, but if the walls are drawn too narrow, you think you have more room than you actually do, and sometimes you try to crowd too many things into a given space.

As ideas come to your mind, you can begin your sketching on the back of an envelope or any scrap of paper you happen to have. As you refine your sketches, ordinary writing paper may be used; a pad of graph paper with lines 1/4" or 1/8" apart each way would be easy to work on as you can follow the lines on the graph paper and will not need any other equipment than a pencil to work to scale. While wrapping paper can be used for drawing, a lighter colored paper would be better.

The paper on which you work out your exact plan is called a "work sheet." This must be large enough for the entire floor plan. Most print shops will sell white bond paper in large-sized sheets, about 17" x 22", which will be very satisfactory for work sheets, and cheaper than drawing paper.

To draw a plan efficiently, take a sheet of paper large enough for the plan and lay out the entire building to scale (always use a scale of 1/4" = 1' 0") with pencil, showing the walls, doors and windows, and dimensions. Erase and change on this sheet as much as you wish¡ªit is only a work sheet¡ªuntil you get exactly the floor plan you want. The only thing required of this sheet is that it be accurate when you have finished the drawing; how messy it looks when you get through with it is not important. The final tracing is what counts; it must be carefully done and complete.

When you are satisfied with the plan and are sure that everything is worked out exactly the way you want it to be built, get a high quality tracing paper for the final drawings. This can be bought in sheets, often 18" x 24" in size, or in rolls of 10 yards in widths from 24" to 36". Get the best quality of tracing paper you can find. Place it over the drawing and fasten it in place with masking tape. Then take your T-square and triangles, clean them with a soft cloth or kleenex, sharpen your drawing pencil, and you are ready to make the final tracings. The tracing paper will be transparent so you can see what is underneath. Trace everything you have on the work sheet¡ªwalls, windows, doors, electric outlets, plumbing, and print neatly the words, living room, bedroom, etc., in the appropriate places to indicate the use of each room. Put the sizes on the doors and windows, and show the outside dimensions.

A little study of the plans shown in the follow�0…2ing pages will help you to see what to include on the tracing.

Schedule of Doors

Symbol	Width	Height	Thickness	Type	Remarks
A	3'-0''	6'-8''	1�0†6''	Flush slab	Selected birch, key lock
B	3'-0''	6'-8''	1�6Ä2''	Flush slab	Selected birch, key lock
C	2'-6''	6'-8''	1�6Ä2''	Flush slab	Selected birch, key lock
D	2'-8''	6'-8''	1�0†6''	Flush with verticalsliding window, key lock
E	2'-0''	6'-8''	1�6Ä2''	Flush slab	Birch
F	4'-0''	6'-8''	1�6Ä2''	Flush pair of closet doors
G	4'-0''	6'-8''	1�6Ä2''	Flush pair sliding doors, nylon rollers
H	8'-0''	6'-8''		Aluminum sliding doors, nylon rollers

Schedule of Windows

Symbol	Width	Height	Thickness	Type	Remarks
1	8'-0''	5'-0''		Fixed	�0†4'' plate glass, bedded in putty
2	8'-0''	5'-0''		Al.h.sl.	Horizontal sliding on nylon rollers
3	6'-0''	4'-6''		Al.h.sl.	Horizontal sliding on nylon rollers
4	6'-0''	2'-6''		Al.h.sl.	Horizontal sliding on nylon rollers
5	8'-0''	2'-6''		Al.h.sl.	Horizontal sliding on nylon rollers
6	4'-0''	3'-0''		Al.h.sl.	Horizontal sliding on nylon rollers
7	2'-0''	3'-0''		Aluminum	Hinged at side (casement)
8
9

In making the final tracing, use a 2H or 3H drawing pencil, sharpen it to a conical point, and rotate it slightly as you draw, especially on long lines, to keep it from getting flat on one side, and press down hard. If you break the lead once in awhile, that indicates that you are using about the right pres�0…2sure. If you never break the lead, it is a sure sign that you are not getting the best line that your pencil can give. If your lines are not heavy enough, your blue prints will not come out clear and plain enough to be understood. Keep the pencil very sharp and press hard to make a clear dense line that will print well.

Do your tracing neatly, making a narrow line of uniform width, one that will look neat and will show up on the final print. When the tracing is completed, you can discard the work sheet and keep only the tracings.

The tracings can then be taken to the blue print shop and the prints made. You can usually get either blue prints or black and white prints. The tracings should be taken home and filed away carefully, as you may wish to made additional prints before the job is completed. The tracings must not be taken to the job, as too much handling, especially with hands that are working and sweaty will spoil their neat appearance.

At least eight or ten sets of prints should be made for most jobs, as the city building department will want two copies, the loan company two, and three or four will be needed on the job. Plumbers, electri�0…2cians, heating men all want copies of the plans, be�0…2sides what the carpenters and concrete men will need.

Don't let this scare you as it will all be explained and simplified in the next few pages. You need make only one drawing at a time, and the floor plan is the most difficult.

The following drawings are needed in a com�0…2plete set of plans:

Floor plan, scale: 1/4" = 1' 0"¡ªshow all doors and windows with sizes, plumbing fixtures, electric lights, convenience outlets and switches, outlines of all cupboards and built-ins.

Elevations, scale: 1/4" = 1' 0"¡ªall four sides of the house.

Foundation plan, scale: 1/4" = 1' 0"¡ªtrace from the floor plan. Show typical cross-sections of the foundation and piers or other special features.

Roof plan, scale: 1/4" = 1' 0"¡ªtrace from floor plan, gives sizes of the rafters, hip rafters, ridges, types of valley and roofing materials. Show cor�0…2nice details.

Ceiling framing plan, scale: 1/4" = 1' 0"¡ªmay sometimes be combined with roof plan.

Cross-section of the building, scale: 1/2" = 1' 0"¡ª show also wall framing and bracing.

Cupboards and special details of construction, scale: I" = 1' 0"¡ªshow details of windows and doors.

Plot plan, scale: 1/16" = 1' 0"¡ªshow location of all buildings, sewer lines, water pipes, gas meter, electric light source, telephone line, drives and sidewalks, slope of ground, trees to be protected, existing fences or those to be built. Give com�0…2plete dimensions of the lot, and of the set-back of the house from the street, and the distances of the house to the lot lines.

Keep the number of sheets to the minimum, but beginners will do well to draw on smaller sheets than those used by professionals. If your drawings are about 18" x 24", they will be large enough to get an ordinary floor plan on one sheet, or two elevations, with room enough for details without crowding. Make all sheets the same size, with a border about a half inch wide all around the drawing, with perhaps an extra inch on the left end to give room enough to staple the sheets all together to make a set of plans.

With the smaller sheets, you can trace the foun�0…2dation and roof plans from the floor plan, and by turning the front and one end elevation over, you can trace off much of the rear elevation and the other end; there will be differences, but the roof lines and the heights of the windows and the floor levels will be similar.

The floor plan should be drawn first, but it is all right to begin on the front elevation, as soon as you have a fair idea of the rooms that will be in the front of the house. You will probably draw several sketches before you finally decide on the plan. If you are more interested in the front appearance than in some other things, you may draw this first and make the rooms fit your idea of a front picture. You will probably find it necessary to change both the floor plan and the elevation several times before you get them to match perfectly and to meet your needs, your ideas, and the ideas of your family.

Begin by drawing small freehand sketches of both the floor plan and the front view, until you get what looks like a workable idea, then transfer it to larger paper. It is better to begin early with a full size drawing of 1/4" to the foot, as then you will get used to drawing to that scale, and the parts of your drawing that work out right can be traced di�0…2rectly on the final tracing paper.

A floor plan is not strictly a floor plan, but is a plan of a house cut horizontally somewhere above the window sills, to show as much of the building as pos�0…2sible.

A cross-section is often very useful in showing how things are put together. Imagine that you are taking a large saw and cutting through the part of the building you wish to show in a cross-section. Then in your mind remove the part you have just sawed off, take a square look at the part that is left, and draw the pieces that show where the saw has cut. Draw the parts as they are in relation to each other. This will give you a cross section.

A scale of 1/2" to the foot will give a cross sec�0…2tion that is easy to draw and not too difficult for the workmen to read.

If you want to economize on paper and printing costs, the elevations and roof plan can be made to a scale of 1/8" = 1' 0", which makes a picture just half as large in each direction as the regular drawing of 1/4" scale. These small drawings will take just as long to make, but the blueprinting will not cost so much if you get more drawings on one sheet.

Cupboards are often drawn so that 1" = 1'. This gives a drawing large enough so that you can get all the necessary details in. If you want smaller drawings, a scale of 1/2" = 1' will make very ac�0…2ceptable working details and is large enough to show the details clearly.

Special moldings or unusual features, especially those that involve curves that are not parts of cir�0…2cles, are often drawn full size, as it is very difficult to reproduce an irregular curve if the size of the drawing is different from the size of the object. Or�0…2dinarily, it is better to avoid too many irregular or unusual things, as this will make the house cost more and will not add much to the value.

Remember to make the floor plan to a scale of 1/4" to the foot as this is almost universal practice in America. Avoid odd scales like 3/8" or 3/16" to the foot, as they tend to confuse the builder when he is used to the regular 1/4" scale.

Orthographic Projection

Builders seldom use perspective drawings, that is, pictures drawn to show things as they look, but use what is known as orthographic projection, which shows things in their true relation to each other, looked at directly, and not from one side or the other. If you look straight head on at the end of a plank and draw the end from that position, you have an orthographic projection.

The sketches in this book will illustrate the difference between a perspective and an orthographic projection. In perspective, the observer stays in one place, drawing the complete thing as it looks from that one place, whereas the builder draws every part as if he were looking with one part at a time directly in front of him. Most of the illustrations in this book will be orthographic projections, as this will give the builder the type of drawing he is used to and will often be clearer and give more accurate informa�0…2tion than the perspective drawings. It will be much easier for you to make understandable drawings if you will take the trouble to learn the simple ortho�0…2graphic method, which is much easier than the per�0…2spective, and much better understood by builders. It is used in this book to give you examples that you can use for models in your own planning.

The Specifications

When you have completed the plans and are sat�0…2isfied that you have just exactly the right house for you, the right size, the correct number of rooms, a workable arrangement, and a pleasing exterior ap�0…2pearance, you need one more thing before you start to build. That is the specifications. This important building document, not so well known as the plans, is a group of typewritten sheets, made in several carbon copies, usually bound in a folder, that sets forth in detail the exact house to be built, giving the location, the street address, the name of the owner, and of the person who prepared the plans. The plans are referred to by date or number, so that they can easily be identified. The specifications are on an equal footing with the plans, and are just as important.

The first part of the specifications is known as the general conditions. This gives in detail the re�0…2sponsibilities of the contractor, his sub-contractors, and of the owner. The owner generally is responsi�0…2ble for the fire insurance, while the contractor takes care of the workmen's compensation insurance, un�0…2employment benefits for the workers, in fact, every�0…2thing that has to do with the men he employs. The specifications should be very clear on these points.

Be sure to state that the owner reserves the right to reject any or all bids without incurring obligations of any kind.

The second part of the specifications gives a com�0…2plete description of each part of the work, just how each part of the house is to be built, with what ma�0…2terials, what qualities of materials are to be used, how the work is to be done, and just what is involved in the work of each trade, with a section on every�0…2thing from excavation, concrete work, through plumbing, wiring and heating, to the linoleum on the kitchen floor and the paint on the bathroom ceil�0…2ing. Make the specifications as complete as possible.

If you plan to write your own, it would be a good idea to get a sample set of well-written specifications that have been used to build other houses similar to yours and use them as a guide in writing your own. This will give an idea of the scope and form of speci�0…2fications, the phraseology used, and the vocabulary of builders.

The main thing is to say exactly what you want to say. Give the make and catalog numbers of plumbing fixtures, electrical equipment, heating plant, win�0…2dows, and any other items you have definitely select�0…2ed. Sometimes it is wise to state after a definite selec�0…2tion, "or approved equivalent," just in case the thing you have selected is difficult to get, you and the con�0…2tractor can select something else that is equivalent, but you are the one to do the final approving.

Be sure to include everything from screens on the windows to the type of roofing on the porch, and everything else you consider important.

A brief set of sample specifications follows on the next few pages.

A specialty contractor who is awarded the contract for some part of the building, as plumbing, wiring, or plastering, is to be known as a SUB-CONTRACTOR. There may be two classes of sub-contractors: those employed by the general con�0…2tractor and those employed by the owner.

The work in general shall include all labor, materials, tools, equipment, transportation, temporary protection, and super�0…2intendence necessary to complete the entire building, including everything shown on the plans, and/or mentioned in these specifications, and'everything necessary to make a complete and finished building whether shown or specified or not so shown or specified.

The plans and specifications as previously mentioned, together with the agreement signed at the time of awarding the contract, will be referred to collectively as the contract.

GENERAL CONDITIONS:

1. The plans and specifications are intended to supplement each other and to agree mutually. In case of direct conflict between the two, these specifications are to be followed; but anything shown in the plans but not specified or specified but not shown in the plans is to be installed complete in a satisfactory manner the same as if both shown and specified. Anything that is necessary to the construction of a substantial, durable, and weather-tight building, and nything that is locally considered to be essential to good construction, is hereby included in the contract, whether specified or shown in the plans or not so shown or specified.



2. The OWNER reserves the right to reject any or all bids without incurring any bligations whatsoever.



3. The CONTRACTOR will take full responsibility for all labor relations, and will comply with all pertinent Govern�0…2ment regulations, city, state, or national, regarding the employment of labor and working conditions. The CONTRACTOR shall carry insurance that will protect the owner from claims under Workmen's Compensation Acts, or claims arising from injury to persons, animals, or things, or from any activity of the contractor, his employees or his agents in connection with the construction of this building.



4. The CONTRACTOR assumes full responsibility for the construction of the building, and no claim may be made against the OWNER because of injury or damage to adjacent property, or other claims arising out of the activities of the contractor, his employees, or agents. The CONTRACTOR will save the OWNER harmless from all legal entanglements and financial claims arising from the entire work of the construction.



5. The CONTRACTOR will pay all labor promptly, keeping a signed payroll to assure the OWNER that all labor is being paid regularly. He will also pay for all materials before the tenth of the month following their purchase, and will furnish receipted vouchers to show that previously purchased materials are paid for, before expecting additional payments under this contract.



6. The CONTRACTOR will do all in his power to prevent liens from being filed against this property, but if a lien is filed, the CONTRACTOR will see that it is removed at once.



7. The CONTRACTOR may not sub-let or sub-contract the principal parts of this building without the written con�0…2sent of the owner, but may sub-contract such specialties as tile work, plumbing, electric wiring, plastering, sheet-metal work, etc.



8. The OWNER reserves the right to let additional contracts in connection with the construction of the building.



9. The CONTRACTOR and the SUB-CONTRACTORS must so coordinate their work that each part is done at the most convenient time in relation to the work of others, and each one is responsible for the protection of the work previ�0…2ously done by others, so that his work does not damage what has already been done.



10. The CONTRACTOR is entirely responsible for the quality and protection of the work done by his SUB-CON�0…2TRACTORS, so that the building can be turned over to The OWNER in first class condition.



11. Changes, additions, or omissions in regard to this work may not be made except upon the written signed re�0…2quest or authorization of the OWNER, and only after a price has been mutually agreed upon in writing for such deviation from the contract documents. Changes or extras will not be allowed or paid for unless definitely ordered in writing and signed by the owner.



12. The CONTRACTOR shall provide such latrines or toilets as are necessary for his employees. No unsanitary condi�0…2tions in or around the premises will be tolerated.



13. The CONTRACTOR is permitted to construct on the building site such shops, storehouses, sheds, etc., as are necessary to carry on the work successfully and efficiently, provided they are located as directed by the owner, and further provided that the contractor agrees to remove all such temporary work from the premises before the building is accepted by the owner.



14. The CONTRACTOR will carry forward the work as rapidly as is consistent with efficiency and with quality construction. The building must be completed before 196, otherwise the CONTRACTOR will be charged dollars per day (to compensate the owner for the extra rent and inconvenience caused him by not being able to occupy his building) from the above date until the building is completed and turned over to the owner.



15. In the event prices of labor and/or materials should increase, the CONTRACTOR may not ask for additional pay�0…2ment on this account.



16. The OWNER may require the contractor to remove from the premises any workman found to be incompetent, careless, dishonest, incompatible, or who fails to observe the sanitary regulations.



17. Any materials delivered to the site and condemned by the owner or his authorized agent must be immediately re�0…2moved from the premises.



18. Any work done or material placed that is unsatisfactory to the owner or his agent must be removed and replaced with satisfactory workmanship and material.



19. All work requiring special skills must be done by experienced craftsmen in a skillful and workmanlike manner; substantial, true, straight, level, and plumb, entirely satisfactory to the owner or his representative.



20. All work must be guaranteed for a period of one year from the date of the completion of the building.



21. The OWNER will carry fire insurance on the building from the time the frame is up until the completion, payable to the OWNER and the CONTRACTOR as their interests may appear. The owner's interest will be interpreted as the amount the owner has paid the contractor plus any amount he has paid for materials or labor outside the contract. The contractor's interest will be the amount he has invested in the building less any payments he has received.



22. The CONTRACTOR will take measures that will safeguard the trees and shrubs growing at the site that he and the owner mutually agree will be left on the site. The contractor will remove at his own expense any trees that need to be removed.



23. The CONTRACTOR will provide such equipment as is necessary to the efficient construction of the building.



24. The OWNER may require that the CONTRACTOR furnish a performance bond in the full amount of the con�0…2tract price. The OWNER will pay for such bond if it is required.



25. When the building is completed the CONTRACTOR will clean up the premises, removing all surplus materials and equipment, and temporary structures, will leave the lot approximately graded, will wax the floors and wash the windows, remove surplus and excess paint, and will leave the building entirely ready for immediate occupancy.



26. The OWNER will do the final grading of the lot and will take care of the landscaping and the lawn.

EXCAVATION:

The general conditions are hereby made a part of the excavation specifications.

The CONTRACTOR shall clear the actual building site of all plants, rocks, grass and debris, as directed by the OWNER.

Excavation for the foundations must be made to the full size, shape, and depth shown on plans, and carried down to solid, undisturbed earth. No filling is permitted in the bottom of the excavations. Excavation must not contain water when the concrete is placed, although the earth should be damp.

Any fill soil will be placed in layers, and each layer rolled with a heavy mechanical roller. This contractor will furnish and transport all required fill.

Before submitting his bid, each contractor should visit the site and make his own estimate of the facilities and difficulties to be encountered, and the amount of cut and fill necessary to complete the work according to the plans.

CONCRETE WORK:

The concrete contractor shall furnish all materials and labor necessary to complete all concrete work, footings, foun�0…2dations, floors, walks, and drives shown on plans, and all portions of the work which logically form a part of the concrete work. Floors are to be smooth and level, in first class condition. Outside concrete is to slope properly to drain. All floors, walks, patios, and drives are to be reinforced with 6" x 6" x 10/10 gauge wire mesh. Continuous membrane waterproofing is to placed under all floors of the building, but not under the outdoor concrete.

All concrete shall be transit mix, of a quality using at least five sacks of cement per cubic yard. All concrete shall be placed within one hour of the time water is first added to the mixture. Concrete shall be vibrated or spaded into the forms to make a solid homogeneous mass free from voids or porous places.

If it is found advisable to mix the concrete at the building site, a power-driven machine mixer shall be used. After all the ingredients have been placed in the machine, mixing shall be continued for at least two minutes, and longer mixing may be required if necessary to assure a uniform and thorough mixing of the materials.

The concrete mixture shall consist of the following ingredients: one part approved portland cement, 2^ parts clean, sharp sand, and 3V& to 4 parts clean gravel or crushed rock. Not more than seven gallons of water shall be used per sack of cement. The same quality of concrete work is expected when mixing at the site as if ready-mixed concrete is used.

Concrete must be kept continuously damp for two weeks after placing to assure a proper setting of the material.

The concrete contractor is to build his own forms.

The general conditions are hereby made a part of the concrete specifications.

MASONRY:

The general conditions are hereby made a part of the masonry specifications.

The masonry contractor shall furnish all labor and materials to complete the fireplace as shown on the plans, including brick, tile, flue lining, reinforcement, dome damper, clean out doors and ash trap, andirons and whatever else is necessary to complete the fireplace and flue for the furnace.

Mortar shall be mixed as follows: one part portland cement, three parts clean sharp sand, and one-sixth part lime putty or fire clay; all shall be properly mixed and used within two hours of the first mixing. Mortar that has partially set shall not be remixed and used.

All joints shall be well filled with mortar and struck or otherwise finished as directed by the owner. The surface of the work shall be kept clean and free from mortar.

CARPENTRY:

Carpentry includes the furnishing of all labor and materials, and equipment necessary to complete the portions of the building to be constructed of wood.

The general conditions are hereby made a part of the carpentry specifications.

All labor is to be first class, with all joints well fitted and all parts of the building securely fastened and nailed in place.

Such scaffolding as is necessary must be erected in a substantial manner to prevent injury to workmen or the building. The owner must be given free access to the building at all times, and if work for the building is being carried on in other places, he must be given opportunity to inspect such work at any reasonable time he may desire to do so.

Sills resting on concrete shall be of redwood, of foundation grade, or treated lumber suited for this use, and all lum�0…2ber coming in contact with concrete or masonry shall be of similar quality.

Studding, plates, and blocking shall be of standard grade or better Douglas fir or long leaf yellow pine; joists and girders, and rafters shall be of construction grade. Roof sheathing shall be of utility or better grade.

The top plates must be doubled, and alternately lapped at the intersections. Joints in the upper plates shall be staggered at least four feet. Angles where stud walls or partitions meet shall be so framed that no lath can extend from one room to another. All walls and partitions are to be thoroughly braced either with let-in 1" x 6" braces, nailed with four 8d nails at each bearing, or with pieces of 2" x 4" cut in between the studs at the proper angle, and well and thoroughly spiked in place.

Framing shall be doubled around all openings in the best approved manner.

MILLWORK AND FINISH CARPENTRY:

The general conditions are hereby made a part of these specifications.

All cabinets shall be made to fit the space provided for them; dimensions shall be taken from the rooms themselves rather than from the plans to allow for slight discrepancies of an inch or so that the actual rooms may deviate from the plans.

All cabinets shall be shop made or mill made, with mortise and tenon or doweled joints, properly glued and fitted to insure first class and durable cabinets. All exposed surfaces to be machine sanded, and again hand sanded after installa�0…2tion. Kitchen cabinets are to be of selected birch or maple on all exposed surfaces; all other cabinets are to be of pine.

Drawers are to run on hardwood runners. All drawers to be fully guided and supported to slide freely.

All working surfaces except as noted otherwise are to be of formica, turned up 6" at the back and turned down 1%" at the front, to make a neat formed job without sharp angles.

Doors enclosing the space under the sink are to be ventilated.

HARDWARE:

The general conditions are hereby made a part of the hardware specifications.

All bolts, anchors, tie straps, nails, and hardware for sliding doors are included in the material to be furnished by the contractor.

An allowance of two hundred dollars ($200.00) is to be made in the contract price for the finish hardware. This in�0…2cludes the locks for the doors, door closers, hinges, pulls, catches, hinges for the cabinet work, door stops, knocker for front door, or other hardware items selected by the owner. If these items cost more than the above $200.00 the owner will pay the difference, but if the net cost to the contractor is less than the above amount, the owner will be credited with the dif�0…2ference.

All other hardware not listed above is to be furnished by the contractor.

DOORS:

All doors are to be of solid core birch veneer flush type, well and skillfully fitted and placed. The owner may select other types of wood, with corresponding adjustments of the price. Exterior doors to be screened.

WINDOWS:

Windows are to be of aluminum frame, horizontal sliding type, fitted with nylon rollers, and glazed with "B" or better flat-drawn double strength glass. All windows must operate freely, and be so fitted as to exclude dust and wind. The bath�0…2room windows are to be glazed with approved obscure glass.

All windows that open are to be fitted with approved screens, easily detachable for window washing. Shade screens are to be furnished for the two windows facing the east.

Where the windows adjoin masonry or stucco, suitable caulking compound is to be placed to make an absolutely water-tight job. Where exposed, heads of windows are to be flashed with rustproof flashing.

ELECTRIC WIRING AND LIGHTING:

The general conditions are hereby made a part of the wiring specifications.

All wiring is to be done in strict accordance with the codes that apply and all must operate perfectly before being accept�0…2able to the owner.

All electrical work is to be as shown on plans, installed in a skillful and workmanlike manner, complete in every way.

Service wires are to be No. 1 size. Note that No. 6 wires are to be run to the oven and the stove top. Service switch is to be 100 amperes in size, fitted with approved circuit breakers. Not more than six double convenience outlets to one 20 ampere circuit breaker, and not more than ten lights to one 15 ampere circuit breaker.

Ivory-colored switches, plates, and duplex outlets are to be furnished.

The wiring contract includes all labor and material necessary to a completed job, and includes installing the light fixtures.

An allowance of two hundred dollars ($200.00) is to be made in the contract for the lighting fixtures. The owner will select the fixtures and if the cost is less than the above sum, he will be credited with the difference; but if the cost is more, the owner will pay any excess over the two-hundred-dollar allowance. The contractor is to install these fixtures without an additional charge.

PLUMBING:

The general conditions are hereby made a part of the plumbing specifications.

All plumbing shall be done in strict accordance with all pertinent laws, ordinances, codes, and regulations that apply to this work.

The plumbing contractor shall be responsible for all damage to any part of the building caused by his work, or as a result of leaks, or breaks in the pipes, or fixtures, furnished and installed by him for a period of one year after completion of his work.

All plumbing fixtures are to be first quality "Crane," "Standard," or approved equivalent.

All pipe shall be thoroughly flushed out before fixtures and faucets are attached to them. The ends of all pipes are to be reamed.

The following fixtures and equipment are included in the plumbing contract, all installed complete and in first class operating condition:

Note: These will vary from one house to another; include only those that you will want in your house.

I double sink 20" x 38", basket strainers, mixing faucet, acid resisting.

I Waste King or approved equivalent garbage disposal unit.

1 single laundry tray, and rough in for automatic washer.

2 water closets (specify type desired) with Olsonite or approved equivalent white seats.

2 cast iron lavatories, Cat. No

1¡ª51/2 cast iron bath tub, complete with shower, mixing valves and curtain rod. Owner to furnish shower curtain.

1¡ª40-gallon gas-fired water heater installed complete with flue. Gas line to furnace; furnace to be installed by heating contractor.

Water supply to house using 1" line from meter to house valve, reducing to 3/4" pipe as it enters house.

4¡ª3/4" hose bibbs to be placed as directed by owner.

Connection to the sewer with 4" burned clay glazed tile with proper fittings and clean out.

Provide brass clean-outs at the end of every line and major change of direction of drainage pipe.

All plumbing must be installed complete in first-class working order to the entire satisfaction of the owner.

ROOFING:

All roofs are to be covered with first quality, vertical grain red cedar shingles, of the thickness known as 5/2. Shingles are to be exposed 41/2" to the weather, joints staggered at least 11/2"; and well and properly nailed in place with galvanized nails.

Flashing is to be of 26 gauge galvanized iron, 18" wide in the valleys.

Roof must be absolutely weather tight and guaranteed for a period of one year from the date of completion of the building.

As an alternate, contractor is requested to give a figure as to the cost of rigid asbestos shingles put on with copper nails, and using copper flashing in valleys and around openings.

As an additional alternate, give figure on slate roof, nailed and flashed as suggested above for asbestos shingles.

Gutters shall be placed on the eaves with downspouts as shown on plans, all of 26 gauge galvanized iron. Gutter con�0…2nections shall be waterproof, and shall have adequate slope to insure proper drainage to the downspouts.

All roof work shall be done by experienced men using special care to insure a weather tight roof.

HEATING:

The heating system must be adequate to heat the building with a temperature difference of eighty degrees between the inside temperature and the outside temperature, and must be guaranteed to do this. Natural gas will be used as the fuel which will be brought to the site of the furnace by the plumber, but the heating contractor will make the connections. Hot air is to be circulated in galvanized ducts, 26-gauge, to each room in the house. Registers are to be of the louvre type that can be closed when the heat is not desired in certain rooms. Squirrel cage type fans are to be used to distribute the heat through the ducts.

As an additional and separate figure, heating contractor is to submit a bid on a refrigeration type cooling system that will keep the house comfortable in the hottest summer weather.

INSULATION:

Rock wool insulation 3" thick is to be placed in all exterior walls of the house, and over the entire ceiling area.

Aluminum foil backed by strong paper of a quality equal to "Sisalation" is to be securely fastened to the underside of the rafters over the entire roof area, to reflect the heat. Adequate and properly screened vents are to be placed in the roof or gables to assure a good ventilation of the attic.

PLASTERING AND STUCCO:

All exterior walls, except where shown otherwise, are to be covered with a good quality stucco, over 15 lb. felt and 11/2" x 17 gauge wire mesh. Stucco is to be of three coats, total thickness not less than one inch, of a waterproof type, properly and skillfully placed. Stucco is to be brought to a true and even surface. The finish coat is to be of a color and texture selected by the owner from samples furnished by the contractor. Stucco must be so formed that water will drip from the outer edge of the stucco over the windows and will not run down the glass. Stucco is to be complete to a point three inches below the finished grade.

Lathing on interior walls is to be rock lath or grip lath well nailed in place. All interior angles are to be fitted with cornerite or 4"" strips of metal lath carefully bent and fitted into the corners. All exterior angles are to be fitted with a metal corner bead.

Plaster is to be hardwall plaster mixed with perlite or other approved lightweight aggregate, plus a small amount of sand to make a hard and durable plaster. All walls are to be rodded to a true and even surface.

Ceilings are to be plastered with 1" of acoustical plaster.

Plaster around bathtub and near lavatory must be of cement over metal lath so as to make a proper base for ceramic tile.

Plasterer must take care not to get plaster on brick work, stone work, and concrete porches. Plaster that gets on windows and door frames must be promptly cleaned up and washed off to leave all surfaces in good clean condition. Plasterer must clean plaster out of the electrical boxes.

Plasterer is to furnish samples of the color and texture suggested for the owner to select what he wants in each room.

Plaster in the kitchen and bathrooms is to be troweled smooth in perfect condition for painting.

PAINTING:

All exterior woodwork is to be given three coats of first quality outside paint, of a color selected by the owner.

Walls in the kitchen and bathrooms are to be given a sealer coat (not glue size), two coats of flat undercoat, and a coat of semi-gloss enamel, all of first quality. If the surface is not perfect, the owner may require an additional coat of semi-gloss enamel. Ceilings are to be painted the same as the walls, except that the owner may select a lighter color.

Walls and ceilings in the living room, hallways and bedrooms are to be given two coats of a rubber base paint, as Kemtone or similar approved equivalent.

All hardwood woodwork, kitchen cabinets, etc., are to be given two coats of lacquer sanding sealer, well sanded and then given four coats first quality clear lacquer, then rubbed to a smooth surface.

FLOORS:

Floors are to be of select quality white oak, well and carefully laid, properly nailed, and sanded by machine to a true and even surface. Oak floors are to be finished with a penetrating type sealer in three coats, and buffed by machine to a smooth surface, and waxed by machine.

Floors in the kitchen and bathrooms are to be of first quality inlaid linoleum, of a quality equal to Armstrong's best grade. Linoleum shall be cemented in place; a plywood sub-floor is to be used and felt pasted to the plywood before the linoleum is applied. Floor in the utility room is to be the same as the floor in the kitchen.

Porches are to be floored with patio grade quarry tile, of a color selected by the owner.